How to make adjustments on the Lune dress? (Bust and neckline front and back)

Let’s begin with bust adjustments. The ‘cup’ depth is given by the curve in the bottom of the front bodice piece. The deeper the curve, the more gathers. So, if you want to add 1cm depth, just add 1cm at the deepest point of the curve, in between notches, and trace a new curve. If you want to reduce depth by 1cm, it is the same process (see drawing). If you reduce a lot, you will also have to modify the front skirt curve, to make it less curvy. Imagine if both curves were straight lines, you would have a completely flat dress front.

Once you are done with your new curve, place the notches. The waist notch should stay at the same distance from the side seam. The top notch (closer to neckline) should stay at the same distance from the tip of the neckline. It is the distance between the two notches that will increase or decrease, and this will result in more or less gathers.

Let’s now adjust the neckline. To raise the neckline, begin by placing the bodice back piece in front of you, paying attention to the straight of grain that should be vertical. Then, place the bodice front piece on top of it, aligning shoulder lines: this will show you how the neckline will fall exactly once the dress is finished. Trace a vertical line at the tip of the neckline, as shown. Move the tip of the neckline along this line to raise or lower the neckline.

You will also need to modify the skirt front: add the same length at the tip, as shown.

This last adjustment is the easiest one: just download the new back piece I drafted for you! Use it instead of the one you have in your pattern, and don’t forget to use a longer zipper.

Head over to my Help and tutorials section to watch a complete video tutorial on how to make the Lune dress, and many more sewing tips.