Update: adjusting Lune for cups A to G is now a piece of cake, thanks to the new add-on. Get it here, print only your cup size, and voilà 🙂
You often asked me how to make adjustments on the Lune dress. You can’t do it the classic way as the design is a bit unusual: there is no bust dart, but gathers to fit the bust. It’s a little more complicated to adjust, but I just loved this design! In this post I will explain how to make full bust adjustments and small bust adjustments, and how to raise the neckline in front and back.
Bust adjustments (FBA, SBA)
Let’s begin with bust adjustments. The ‘cup’ depth is given by the curve in the bottom of the front bodice piece. The deeper the curve, the more gathers. So, if you want to add 1cm depth, just add 1cm at the deepest point of the curve, in between notches, and trace a new curve. If you want to reduce depth by 1cm, it is the same process (see drawing). If you reduce a lot, you will also have to modify the front skirt curve, to make it less curvy. Imagine if both curves were straight lines, you would have a completely flat dress front.
Once you are done with your new curve, place the notches. The waist notch should stay at the same distance from the side seam. The top notch (closer to neckline) should stay at the same distance from the tip of the neckline. It is the distance between the two notches that will increase or decrease, and this will result in more or less gathers.
Front neckline adjustment
Let’s now adjust the neckline. To raise the neckline, begin by placing the bodice back piece in front of you, paying attention to the straight of grain that should be vertical. Then, place the bodice front piece on top of it, aligning shoulder lines: this will show you how the neckline will fall exactly once the dress is finished. Trace a vertical line at the tip of the neckline, as shown. Move the tip of the neckline along this line to raise or lower the neckline.
You will also need to modify the skirt front: add the same length at the tip, as shown.
Back neckline adjustment
This last adjustment is the easiest one: just download the new back piece I drafted for you! Use it instead of the one you have in your pattern, and don’t forget to use a longer zipper.