The Pleiades 2 dress is drafted for a B-cup for size range XS to XL, and a D-cup for size range XL to Plus size 6X. B-cup has a full bust circumference that is 2” (5cm) bigger than high bust circumference. D-cup has a full bust circumference that is 4” (10cm) bigger than high bust circumference. For this example, let’s say we will decrease the full bust by 2” (5cm). Read here how to do the opposite adjustment: performing an FBA (Full Bust Adjustment) on Pleiades 2.
- Mark the sewing line 5/8” (1.5cm) in at the armhole.
- On the sewing line, mark the armhole hinge point at about 5/8” (1.5cm) before the front armhole notch.
- Mark the bust apex at about 1” (2-2.5cm) above the current dart apex.
- Extend dart legs to the bust apex.
- Cut from side to apex, perpendicular to center front, as shown.
- Cut out the dart (we will close this dart).
- Close the existing dart to transfer to the side.
- Cut as shown, from hinge point 1 to apex, and from bottom to apex, parallel to center front. This second line, from bottom to apex, is named FBA line.
- Draw a line parallel to the center front and 1” (2.5cm – i.e. half of required SBA amount) away from vertical FBA line.
- Using HINGE POINT 1 as pivot, rotate sections A & B till HINGE POINT 2 intersects with the vertical red line.
- Using HINGE POINT 2 as pivot, rotate section B only till the edge lines up completely with the red line.
- This closes up a dart at the side seam.
- Draw a slashline at the center front to shorten the center front length (exact placement of that line is not important – just look at drawing for reference).
- Locate the new bust apex somewhere in the middle of the overlap.
- Trace around the new shape.
- Redraw the side dart legs.
- Draw a slash line from the point the intial dart closed up to the bust apex.
- Transfer the side dart back to the original location on the waist.
- Extend the waistline by the needed amount.
- Blend the side seam.
- Blend the waistline and true the darts, you may lower the dart apex from the bust apex by 1/2” (2.5cm).
This is it, you now have your new adjusted bodice front piece! Please make a toile to check the fit and make other necessary adjustments if needed.