The Pleiades 1 dress sewing pattern is drafted for a B-cup from XS to XL, and for a D-cup from XL to plus size 6X. B-cup has a full bust circumference that is 2” (5cm) bigger than the high bust circumference, and D-cup has a full bust circumference that is 4” (10cm) bigger than the high bust circumference. For this example we will do an SBA that decreases the full bust by 2” (5cm). Read here how to do the opposite adjustment : Full Bust Adjustment (FBA) for Pleiades 1, method 1 and method 2 (you can choose the one you prefer).
- Locate Bust Apex.
- Brown line is paralel to center front and drawn a distance that is equal to half the bust span away from the center front.
- Orange line is drawn from the highest point of shoulder to intersect with the brown line. The orange line length is HPS (Highest point of shoulder) to Bust Apex measured on the body.
- Take out a dart of about 4”/10cm deep on the gathered shoulder.
- Tranfer the dart to the side.
- Red line is drawn 1” (2.5cm) to the right of, and parallel to, the brown line we traced earlier.
- Using HINGE POINT 1 as pivot, rotate parts A & B such that HINGE POINT 2 meets up with the red parallel line.
- Using HINGE POINT 2 as pivot, rotate parts B only such that the edge of Part B lines up with the red parallel line. This action closes up the side dart.
- Reduce the center front length by overlapping the cut center front piece till its bottom edge lines up smoothly with bottom edge of Part B.
- Trace out the new shape.
- Draw a slash line from Apex to the Shoulder to transfer the side dart.
- Extend the waistline by the needed amount, blending the line to the point where the closed side dart was.
- Blend the side seam and shoulder seam.
This is it, you now have your new adjusted bodice front piece! Please make a toile to check the fit and make other necessary adjustments if needed.