- Mark the sewing line 5/8” (1.5cm) in at the armhole.
- On the sewing line, mark the armhole hinge point at about 5/8” (1.5cm) before the front armhole notch.
- Mark the bust apex at about 1” (2.5cm) above the current dart apex.
- Cut along the 3 red lines. The line parallel to center front that goes through the apex is named “FBA line”. Keep it in mind for next step.
- Draw a line parallel to the center front and 1” (2.5cm) away from vertical FBA line.
- Using HINGE POINT 1 as pivot, rotate sections A & B till HINGE POINT 2 intersects with the vertical red line.
- Using HINGE POINT 2 as pivot, rotate section B only till the edge lines up completely with the red line.
- This opens up a dart at the side seam.
- Draw a slashline at the center front to lengthen the center front.
- Locate the new bust apex somewhere in the middle of the gap.
- Trace around the new shape.
- Redraw the side dart legs.
- Draw line D to D1, locate its midpoint.
- Draw a slash line through the midpoint to the new bust apex.
- Transfer the side dart to the waist.
- Deduct the needed amount from the waistline.
- True the darts and blend the waistline.
- You may drop the bust apex by about 1” (2.5cm) before doing so.
- Transfer marks and notches.
This is it, you now have your new adjusted bodice front piece! Please make a toile to check the fit and make other necessary adjustments if needed.