The Pleiades 1 dress is drafted for a B-cup from XS to XL, and for a D-cup from XL to plus size 6X. B-cup has a full bust circumference that is 2” (5cm) bigger than the high bust circumference, and D-cup has a full bust circumference that is 4” (10cm) bigger than the high bust circumference. For this example we will do an SBA that increases the full bust by 2” (5cm). There is also a second method here (choose the one you prefer). Also, read here how to do the opposite adjustment : Small Bust Adjustment (SBA) for Pleiades 1.
![Pleiades 1 FBA (Full Bust Adjustment) method 2 - step 1](https://www.frenchpoetry.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Pleiades-1-FBA-method-2-2.png 800w, https://www.frenchpoetry.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Pleiades-1-FBA-method-2-2-258x300.png 258w, https://www.frenchpoetry.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Pleiades-1-FBA-method-2-2-768x893.png 768w, https://www.frenchpoetry.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Pleiades-1-FBA-method-2-2-600x698.png 600w)
Step 1
- Locate Bust Apex.
- Brown line is paralel to center front and drawn a distance that is equal to half the bust span away from the center front.
- Orange line is drawn from the highest point of shoulder to intersect with the brown line. The orange line length is HPS (Highest point of shoulder) to Bust Apex measured on the body.
![Pleiades 1 FBA (Full Bust Adjustment) method 2 - step 2](https://www.frenchpoetry.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Pleiades-1-FBA-method-2-3.png 800w, https://www.frenchpoetry.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Pleiades-1-FBA-method-2-3-258x300.png 258w, https://www.frenchpoetry.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Pleiades-1-FBA-method-2-3-768x893.png 768w, https://www.frenchpoetry.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Pleiades-1-FBA-method-2-3-600x698.png 600w)
Step 2
- Cut from bottom to apex following straight of grain.
- Cut from hinge point (as shown, at armhole notch level, on armhole seam line) to apex.
- Cut from side to apex (as shown, exact placement is not important).
![Pleiades 1 FBA (Full Bust Adjustment) method 2 - step 3](https://www.frenchpoetry.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Pleiades-1-FBA-method-2-4.png 800w, https://www.frenchpoetry.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Pleiades-1-FBA-method-2-4-249x300.png 249w, https://www.frenchpoetry.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Pleiades-1-FBA-method-2-4-768x924.png 768w, https://www.frenchpoetry.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Pleiades-1-FBA-method-2-4-600x722.png 600w)
Step 3
- The red line is drawn 1” (2.5cm – i.e half of required FBA amount) away and parallel to the vertical portion of the FBA cut line.
![Pleiades 1 FBA (Full Bust Adjustment) method 2 - step 4](https://www.frenchpoetry.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Pleiades-1-FBA-method-2-5.png 800w, https://www.frenchpoetry.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Pleiades-1-FBA-method-2-5-249x300.png 249w, https://www.frenchpoetry.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Pleiades-1-FBA-method-2-5-768x924.png 768w, https://www.frenchpoetry.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Pleiades-1-FBA-method-2-5-600x722.png 600w)
Step 4
- Cut as shown, perpendicular to center front (exact placement of this line is not important).
![Pleiades 1 FBA (Full Bust Adjustment) method 2 - step 5](https://www.frenchpoetry.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Pleiades-1-FBA-method-2-6.png 800w, https://www.frenchpoetry.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Pleiades-1-FBA-method-2-6-249x300.png 249w, https://www.frenchpoetry.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Pleiades-1-FBA-method-2-6-768x924.png 768w, https://www.frenchpoetry.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Pleiades-1-FBA-method-2-6-600x722.png 600w)
Step 5
- Lengthen the center front by spreading on the cut piece as shown.
![Pleiades 1 FBA (Full Bust Adjustment) method 2 - step 6](https://www.frenchpoetry.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Pleiades-1-FBA-method-2-7.png 800w, https://www.frenchpoetry.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Pleiades-1-FBA-method-2-7-249x300.png 249w, https://www.frenchpoetry.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Pleiades-1-FBA-method-2-7-768x924.png 768w, https://www.frenchpoetry.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Pleiades-1-FBA-method-2-7-600x722.png 600w)
Step 6
- Redraw dart legs as shown using the original Bust Apex.
![Pleiades 1 FBA (Full Bust Adjustment) method 2 - step 7](https://www.frenchpoetry.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Pleiades-1-FBA-method-2-8.png 800w, https://www.frenchpoetry.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Pleiades-1-FBA-method-2-8-248x300.png 248w, https://www.frenchpoetry.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Pleiades-1-FBA-method-2-8-768x929.png 768w, https://www.frenchpoetry.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Pleiades-1-FBA-method-2-8-600x726.png 600w)
Step 7
- This mehod added to the waist circumference, so take that out at the side and blend the side seam.
![Pleiades 1 FBA (Full Bust Adjustment) method 2 - step 8](https://www.frenchpoetry.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Pleiades-1-FBA-method-2-9.png 800w, https://www.frenchpoetry.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Pleiades-1-FBA-method-2-9-252x300.png 252w, https://www.frenchpoetry.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Pleiades-1-FBA-method-2-9-768x916.png 768w, https://www.frenchpoetry.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Pleiades-1-FBA-method-2-9-600x716.png 600w)
Step 8
- Trace out the new shape.
This is it, you now have your new adjusted bodice front piece! Please make a toile to check the fit and make other necessary adjustments if needed.
I did something like this method when I did an FBA on my Pleiades dress, but left the waist a little larger, and just reduced the gathering from the skirt a little (or, possibly, picked the larger size skirt, I am not totally sure I remember!). This way it was less fitted at the waist but I ended up not needing the zip at the back at all, which was so much more comfy for me!
Thank you for sharing Kittie 🙂 yes that is a possibility as well, Pleiades can be a nice loose-fit dress!